World Best Surf Places
Taghazout, Morocco
Taghazout, Morocco, is a surfing oasis in the middle of a long, rugged coastline that is inundated with waves. This ancient Berber encampment became an outpost for European adventurers trekking into southern Morocco in the 1960s. And throughout that same period, surfers “discovered” the region and set up shop in Taghazout. Today, there are a lot of French and Spanish surfers mingling with the native Moroccans and Berbers in what still feels like a frontier town on the edge of the desert. The waves are almost always long-period ground swells—which means great shape and plenty of power—and the winds consistently blow offshore.
Beginners should start at beaches like Panoramas or Crocodiles and work their way up to the point breaks, which are considered among the best in the world. To sample the crème de la crème, go for a surf at Anchor Point or Killer Point and learn why surfers often describe the waves there as “freight trains.
Bundoran, Ireland
Ireland, known among surfers as “Europe’s cold-water Indonesia” should be on the bucket list of every surfer. And Bundoran should be the start of any surfing adventure on the Emerald Isle. This centuries-old fishing village catches just about any swell that steamrolls through the North Atlantic and onto a smattering of beaches and reefs that suit different levels of surfers.
The water may be cold, but the pubs and locals are always warm, serving up national specialties such as Guinness and oysters to the tune of traditional Irish music. “Bundoran is a town with many sides and the real Bundoran can only be found with the help of the locals,” says Pete Craig, surfer and owner of the outfitter Bundoran Surf Co. The main surfing beach is Tullan Strand, but if you want to venture out, ask locals about the surrounding reefs and beaches, which work on a variety of swells.
Biarritz, France
Biarritz is the only surf town in the world with a royal history. In 1854, Empress Eugénie convinced her husband, Napoleon III, to visit the area. They then bought the land and built a palace on the beach, which made Biarritz one of the hottest resort towns in Europe. Screenwriter Peter Viertel brought France its first surfboard in 1956, when he came to shoot location shots for The Sun Also Rises.
Still considered the birthplace of European surfing, Biarritz is a nice combination of French high culture and SoCal surf culture, putting a decidedly surfy spin on the notion of joie de vivre. Start surfing on La Grande Plage (the Big Beach) in front of the town center. If it gets too crowded, local Cape Breton transplant David Hanguehard recommends checking out surrounding beaches such as La Côtes des Basques, Anglet, and Guethary.
Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaii
Hanalei Town sits on the North Shore of Kauai, one of the least developed and most beautiful islands in the Hawaiian chain. The local Hawaiians, or “Ka poe Hawaii,” maintain a strong sense of identity and connection to their Polynesian ancestry, making this the perfect place to catch some waves while learning about the long, and sometimes fraught, history of the 50th state.
The town is surrounded by diverse wave-riding spots, from the beginner-friendly waves of the Hanalei Pier (watch out for local kids jumping off the end) to expert-only reef breaks where experience and a healthy respect for the local pecking order are prerequisites. “There are many waves on the island that are not suitable for visitors,” says Evan Valiere, one of the many world-class surfers from this island (a list that also includes Bruce and the late Andy Irons). “But come with a good vibe and respectful attitude, and it will be a place that you will never forget.”
Tofino, British Columbia, Canada
California may be one of the surfing world’s spiritual centers, but one of the surfiest towns on the West Coast of North America is far to the north. Tofino, British Columbia, is an old fur trading and logging town that just happens to sit in one of the prettiest spots on Vancouver Island. Clayoquot Sound, compromised of nearly 350,000 hectares of land and ocean, is cool, misty, full of wildlife, and utterly spectacular. Although winters can be harsh, the spring and summer bring warmer air temperatures and almost nonstop markets, festivals, and cultural events.
“All of our beaches are beginner friendly, especially in the summer,” says local professional Peter Devries, a man who currently surfs better in head-to-toe neoprene than perhaps anyone in the world. “The huge tides flatten out the beaches and create very mellow beginner waves. There is the odd exception where the banks can change and get powerful and hollow, but there is always somewhere that is good for beginners. South Chesterman Beach and Long Beach are great places to learn.”
Encinitas, California
No area of the United States says “surfing” quite like Southern California; and no SoCal town is quite as surfy as Encinitas. It’s an easygoing mix of West Coast counterculture—from skaters and snowboarders to surfers—and New Age spiritualists. Aside from having some of the oldest and most well-respected surf shops in the country, it is also the home of La Paloma Theatre, which in its 84-year history has premiered countless surf films.
For a few waves to yourself, cruise down to Moonlight Beach, which supports a wide range of surfers, from beginners on its central sandbars to more advanced surfers at its north and south ends. “I love the energy of Encinitas,” says local surfer and body surfing guru Ed Lewis, who has opened the world of body surfing to a much larger audience through the shaping of handplanes. “As you drive up the freeway, you can feel the energy of it,” he says. “It has everything you could ask for: culture, great food, spirituality, great surf spots, a long history of surfing, surfers and shapers—and the people are friendly and happy.”
Byron Bay, Australia
In an entire continent of surf towns, Byron Bay stands out as one of the spiritual and historical homes of surfing in what is, pound for pound, perhaps the greatest surfing nation in the world. Despite a tendency toward the upscale, Byron is at heart a hippie town that favors live bands, relaxed cafes that source local ingredients, and plenty of “all natural” everything. Combine that with the naturally cheerful disposition of many Aussies and you won’t find better waves in a more pleasant setting anywhere in the world.
The town’s main wave, the Pass, is a classic right-hand point break that accommodates all levels of surfers, though it can get crowded on good swells. Beginners should stay on the beach and more advanced surfers can head south to Broken Head, which has great beach breaks and other classic points.
Shonan, Japan
When you think of wave-rich Pacific islands, Japan doesn’t immediately jump to mind. It doesn’t have the consistency of Hawaii or the death-defying reef breaks of Tahiti. But its west coast is home to hundreds of miles of dark-sand beaches, and its craggy coastline hides reefs, points, and river mouths for all level of surfers.
“My hometown, Shonan, is the birthplace of Japanese surfing,” says professional big-wave surfer Takayuki Wakita. “Like many Japanese seaside towns, it started out as a fishing town. But now it’s one of the capitals of surfing for the entire country because the waves are good and it’s only an hour away from Tokyo.” The change started in 1955, when the Japanese author Shintaro Ishihara published Season of the Sun, about a group of Japanese teenagers living in rich hedonism on the sands of Shonan. While it didn’t describe any surfers, Wakita’s forefathers started riding waves soon after. Don’t expect fish tacos and English surf slang in Shonan. Do expect hundred-year-old temples, local festivals, and scenery right out of a Hokusai wood-block print.
Muizenberg, South Africa
Located in a country known for cold water, heavy waves, and sharks, Muizenberg, South Africa, is an oasis of gentle rollers, friendly locals, and beachside cafes. And don’t forget about the local wine. “Muizenberg is the best ‘learn to surf’ beach in the world,” says Tim Conibear, founder of Isiqalo, a Cape Town organization that teaches kids from low-income neighborhoods to surf. “The attitude in the water is also super-mellow, with a general acceptance of all watercrafts and abilities. Shark spotters keep you safe, so you don't need to worry. For heavier waves, take a walk toward Kalk Bay, where there's a serious reef. Danger Reef is also a little left-breaking wave that's worth a stop.”
La Paloma, Uruguay
Uruguayos prefer to fly below the radar, which is why you probably didn’t know that their Atlantic coastline is one of the most pristine and beautiful in the Americas. Although famous resort towns such as Punta del Este have long been a haven for Argentine and European travelers, the rest of the coastline is reserved for locals. La Paloma is a dusty little beach town where Uruguayans go to surf, drink maté tea, and grill large hunks of grass-fed beef over open flames. “It’s an enchanting little town where everyone is friendly,” says Uruguay’s best professional surfer Marco Giorgi. “One of the best parts is that it has surf spots for all levels of rider. And regardless of which way the wind is blowing, it’s almost always surfable somewhere.”
San Sebastián, Spain
San Sebastián, or Donostia in the local language, is the cultural capital of Spain’s vibrant Basque country. Though not as renowned for waves as its northeastern neighbors in France, it more than makes up for it by being a center for music, cinema, and molecular gastronomy for all of Europe.
“Donostia is a marvelous place with a lot to offer both in and out of the water,” says local surfer and city tourism official Jokin Arroyo Uriarte. “It’s a small city where you can surf at Zurriola Beach then walk over to the old part of the city for a few pintxos (Basque referring to small portions like tapas), a couple glasses of beer, and an incredibly authentic ambiance. Apart from having one of the most beautiful bays in the world, Bahía de la Concha, the city has a love affair with surfing and tons of infrastructure for the visiting surfer.”
Nosara, Costa Rica
In a wave-rich country, Nosara stands out as the surf town par excellence. Warm water, friendly locals, endless beaches, powerful river mouths, long point breaks, and virtually year-round high swells make it a veritable surfing Disneyland—without all the lines and overzealous parents. Located on the coast of a Blue Zone (a place where a large percentage of local people live to a hundred years old or more), Nosara offers the kind of lifestyle that most surfers only dream about. It is a perennial favorite among traveling surfers of all levels for both its waves and relaxed pace of life.
Paia, Maui, Hawaii
Most Hawaiian towns are surf towns, but none have the artsy, eccentric vibe of Paia on Maui’s North Shore. What started as a sugarcane boomtown is now a hangout for artists, surfers, and wind sport enthusiasts from around the world. Although not known as a surfing mecca like Oahu’s North Shore, partially due to the daily side-shore winds that shred the lineups most afternoons, this actually works in favor of visiting surfers, according to local pro surfer Zack Howard: “There are a lot of great surfers here, but in general, the level is lower than in places like Oahu, and that means there are a lot of waves for everyone.”
Novices should check out Paia Bay. If you want to rub shoulders with Maui’s elite, paddle out at Hookipa—just make sure your shoulders can handle a workout, as it doesn’t break close to shore. If you happen to be in town during a big winter swell, drive west down the Hana Highway and pull off between mile markers 13 and 14. From the bluff you can watch an international crew of big-wave hellmen tow into waves breaking over the outer reef known as Jaws.
Raglan, New Zealand
The surfing world first learned about Raglan, or Whaingaroa as it’s known in the local Maori language, when its empty, seemingly endless left-hand point breaks were featured in Bruce Brown’s seminal surfing film, The Endless Summer. Although you can expect more of a crowd in the lineup today than the Endless Summer boys encountered in 1966, the town itself is a throwback to the golden days of surfing, according to Charlie Young, the director of the Raglan Surfing School. “The old vibe still exists here,” he says. “People still look out for each other.”
Lower pressure systems generated in the Roaring Forties (an area between 40° and 49° south latitude that produces some of the strongest and most consistent swells in the world) sends waves to setups that include the beginner- to intermediate-friendly Ngarunui Beach and the more advanced but absolutely classic Manu Bay. When you aren’t in the water, Young recommends checking the avant-garde music and art scene, Maori crafts stores, and locally sourced restaurants and markets.
Bukit Peninsula, Bali
If you want to rub shoulders with the best surfers in the world while surfing some of the best waves in the world, head to Bali. Unlike its more touristy cousin, Kuta Beach, the Bukit Peninsula is a rural outpost of limestone cliffs, pristine beaches, fearsome reef breaks, and hilltop temples where Indonesian culture still dominates. Beginner and intermediate surfers should stick to beach breaks such as Dreamland. More experienced surfers need to take a crack at two of the most famous waves in the world—Uluwatu and Padang Padang. For Padang Padang, be sure to bring plenty of antiseptic for the occasional run-in with the reef.
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